CNC cost?

"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin) 02/16/2018 at 19:20 • Filed to: None

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I know there are a few machinist type people on here.

Just curious, how does the price break down take place?

I know of tooling fees and setup fees and such, but how do they realistically break down?

I’m thinking of making a few parts, and buying stock parts and cutting them up and welding them I imagine is not going to be sustainable. It is a pretty simple piece I imagine. I could probably sketch it up in 1/2 an hour as a measure of complexity.

Phyrxes once again has a wagon! > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 19:56

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You are looking for essentially a one off part? If so you should look around and see if there are any “mom and pop” shops local to you.

Texasfoolontherule > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 20:00

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emachineshop or something similar for short production.

Slant6 > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 20:04

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Does it have to be computer cut? My school has a CNC mill but there’s always a long line, I just got good at the old overhead mill and can do 2d cuts pretty consistently.

For paying a shop to CNC it normally has to do with how much time it takes the machine to make your part, and how many different tools they need to use on it, then getting it zeroed again (although newer more professional machines do this themselves).

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 20:59

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The owner of my employer... Uh the guy that writes my checks... Looked into getting a CNC machine. Hard. But eventually he decided the costs were too high and the space required to run it would require him to rent out another shop somewhere, and rent ain’t cheap here. Still, I think it could have really been a game-changer for us...

gmporschenut also a fan of hondas > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 21:07

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how big are the parts. cheap mills start at 1k-3k depending on size, with some aftermarket cnc devices an additional 900. http://www.grizzly.com/milling-machines

I would guess a local shop would be much cheaper.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > StudyStudyStudy 02/16/2018 at 22:11

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Depending on what it is I am interested. I have access to 3 CNC mills. I run one all day. I enjoy making stuff that is not work related. It might take me a while. I just made some parts for RallyDarkStrike. I have scrap material lying around too. Can’t really give you any idea on price. Sorry. I don’t do that part.

StudyStudyStudy > Phyrxes once again has a wagon! 02/17/2018 at 01:35

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Most likely will be a one off. The trend seems to be to call one offs rapid prototypes at some of the shops close by and they charge a really high amount.

StudyStudyStudy > Slant6 02/17/2018 at 01:36

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Hmm it is almost 2d. It has some contouring that isn’t required, but one of the 4 holes comes in at an angle. You do raise a good point, I hadn’t thought of schools.

StudyStudyStudy > gmporschenut also a fan of hondas 02/17/2018 at 01:38

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Unfortunately space has always been a problem for me. If I had space I would just find a way to make it with hand tools honestly. The piece looks to be about 6 inches by 2 inches at the longest an widest.

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/17/2018 at 01:47

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Well any insight would be appreciated. It would basically be a shortened steering knuckle. It could almost be made from flat bar stock, except it has a raised portion that indexes onto the strut housing and one of the holes and mounts come in at an angle. I plan on buying a set to modify, but I was just wondering given the relative simplicity how hard it would be to have one made.

Slant6 > StudyStudyStudy 02/17/2018 at 16:24

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angle isn’t really a problem, if you have an accurate enough rotating tray on a drill press.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > StudyStudyStudy 02/17/2018 at 17:13

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Steering knuckle? Like this, radon

This is just a random one I pulled from the interweb. You want to have one of these made?

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/17/2018 at 20:13

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Oh nothing that complex

The hub assembly is part of the strut in my car so just the bottom portion.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > StudyStudyStudy 02/19/2018 at 13:10

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So you would want the angled hole not as far out? What car is this for?

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/20/2018 at 15:04

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Correct, the black one is stock, the silver one has the hole 10mm closer. I bought a stock set to modify to try to see if bringing it even closer has any negative ramifications, but I’ve been told you can bring it up to 18mm closer without too much trouble.

This is for the Datsun 240z, 260z, 280z.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > StudyStudyStudy 02/22/2018 at 14:30

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Does that have to be at that angle? I found this is why I ask,

 If it can be straight it would be super easy to make.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/22/2018 at 14:33

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So two of the holes are for the strut, the hole between those two is at an angle and is for the lower balljoint and the other angled hole is for the outer tie rod end?

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/22/2018 at 18:40

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The strut sits at an angle at ride height, so the angle keeps the tie rod ball joint more vertical, not a huge deal because the tie rod is a ball joint itself and can pivot to accommodate to a certain degree. Part of the reason to look into changing it is because that is one of the two options. Unfortunately that one combined with the RCA makes the tie rod and the ball joint sit at a really awkward angle. My ball joint already has built in RCA adjustment so for my application a copy of the stock arm, but shorter I think would be preferable.

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/22/2018 at 18:42

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Kind of. The hole between the two in line holes for the strut is just offset, technically tapered as well, but the hole as I recall is more or less vertical. The hole at the far end is at a slight angle and is for the outer tie rod end, also tapered as well, but I’ll be removing the taper to use with a simpler heim joint and bolt combo also most likely with some bump steer adjustment.

StudyStudyStudy > Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! 02/22/2018 at 18:48

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Also the hole in the middle, between the strut mounting bolts, does not need to be offset. I believe it could be in line like the one you found. Part of my thought process is that I could make this out of a fairly thick piece of flat bar stock, then weld a ring around the center hole to index the strut correctly, and use a piece of tube for the tie rod mount and weld that along with some gussets to the bar stock. Just curious how the CNC process would be in making this similarly like the one pictured I suppose without the RCA and shorter.

Duck Duck Grey Duck FTMFW! > StudyStudyStudy 02/23/2018 at 14:11

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Well for example, if I we’re to make something like the one in the picture I posted out of aluminum, I would write a program that drills the holes first. The next program would be putting some tapped holes in another piece of aluminum that is going to be a fixture. The third program would cut the diamond profile around the strut mount bit and the fourth program would do the other side. Before I did all of this I would make a drawing of the part so I know what is what. Basically, the CNC makes the holes nicer.